Car-free on the Cornish coast

It had begun as a mere inkling, popping up on the train as it passed through the West Country. But it had matured into trepidation as the ferry set off from Plymouth and across the Tamar. This would be my first visit to Cornwall for more than 15 years. Would it still be as special? Would it still be the same?

My memories of England’s most southerly county are similar to those of many people: of holidays full of chips, ice creams and sandcastles, all enjoyed on stunning beaches of bright sand and turquoise seas. Trips in later years comprised long clifftop walks topped off by delicious local beers in proudly local bars.

But since then, my experience of Cornwall has been remote and considerably more downbeat, with many of the problems that afflict the country brought into focus in its remotest corner. Overtourism ruining its once-perfect villages; extortionate house prices that are rising far faster than the meagre local wages; widespread poverty, both rural and urban. It was hard to know what to expect upon my return.

The ferry deposited half its passengers at Drake’s Island, with school groups and pensioners alike gearing up for a day of history. But Gary and I stayed aboard and, minutes later, we pulled up alongside the tiny landing point at Cremyll. Daypack on, a half-jump onto land the bridge and there I was… back in Cornwall.

A small crowd milled about outside the Edgcumbe Arms, either waiting for it to open or unsure what to do now they were off the boat. Our own plan was much clearer. While Cornwall was a rare treat for me, this is now Gary’s walking backyard and he led us straight to the South West Coast Path and our day heading clockwise along a short stretch of this 630-mile behemoth.

Our route started through the shrubby outskirts of Mount Edgcumbe Country Park. Native woodland battled with non-native rhododendrons for space and light, our way weaving muddily between the two. All very pleasant, but not – not yet – the Cornwall of memory, with the thick foliage allowing only brief glimpses out to sea.

The objective for the day was to explore the promontory of Rame Head, but before that there was a pre-planned stop at The Canteen at Maker Heights. It may not have the snappiest of names, but there’s little else to question about this remarkable restaurant. Food, service and location were all excellent, topped off with a wonderful local apple juice. Yet despite the quality on offer, or even its emphasis on local produce, it still wasn’t quite Cornwally enough. Or at least not the Cornwall of my recollection. There weren’t even any gulls trying to snatch the food straight from my hand.

We headed downhill to rejoin the coastal path. And there it was in Kingsand: the Cornwall I knew. Narrow streets all seeming to lead to the shore. Houses overhanging the water. Gleaming boats hauled onto shore, awaiting their next venture among the waves. Plus a shop selling that most Cornish of treats, ice cream overflowing with sugar and richness and flavour, everything that is good in food. The sun even burst through the midsummer clouds, staying with us as we continued out of the village and on to Rame Head.

The South West Coast Path is extremely hilly, a fact that is so often cited it can surely no longer claim to be little known. With the rays now blasting down, we kept up as brisk a pace as possible from St Michael’s Chapel to Whitsand Bay, keeping a keen eye on the time and the bus timetable. The path here is narrow and gorse clawed at our bare arms and legs. But the view was the finest it had been all day: a great curve of coastline, stretching south into the haze. As the sweat seeped past my brow and into my eyes, I envied those on the beach who had the cool water so close at hand. Was there time to join them? Alas no; the bus was not going to wait for us. We reached the stop above the beach with minutes to spare and it dutifully dropped us in Cremyll and the boat back to Plymouth. From countryside back to the city, from Cornwall back to Devon. It had only been a brief return, but one to cherish – and it surely won’t be another 15 years before my next.

Useful information

Information about public transport in Cornwall can be found here.

The Canteen at Maker Heights is highly recommended if you need sustenance on route.

And here are a few tips about how to visit Cornwall responsibly.