Across the Yorkshire Dales
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End: Grinton, OS Grid: SE046984 Elevation Profile (x: waypoint number, y: metres)
Gain (+/- 10%): 1864m (6118ft)
Total (+/- 10%): 3666m (12027ft)
Loss (+/- 10%): 1801m (5909ft)
Max. Elevation: 700m (2296ft)
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The journey starts at Gargrave Station, on the Settle-Carlisle line. The station is just south of the village. In the village itself, pick up the Pennine Way heading north.
Navigation is easy - the Pennine Way is a much-trodden and well signposted route - across some pleasant farming countryside. The view ahead is a tantalising glimpse of what is to come. Continue past the village of Airton and keep heading north.
The PW continues into Malham, which has a Youth Hostel. The scenery steps up a notch here, and the first decision awaits you too - straight on to marvel at the unique limestone cliff of Malham Cove, or northeast to the scramble up Gordale Scar.
Whichever route you choose - and both are superb - aim for Middle House Farm, an outpost on Malham Moor. From here, take the bridleway towards Cowside Beck and Arncliffe.
Arncliffe in Littondale - the first of the five - sits at the end of Cowside Beck. Also time to switch maps to OL30 - Yorkshire Dales northern and central areas. From Arncliffe, head over Middlemoor Pasture.
If you are going for a big first day, there is also a Youth Hostel in Kettlewell. With all Dales accommodation, ther golden rule is - book well ahead! Those turning up hopefully will often be left looking for a dry barn somewhere...
This section along the Dales Way through Wharfedale is one of the highlights - a beautiful river valley teeming with birdlife. The string of woodland along the western side adds a warm character to the dale, and the riverside path is easy going.
Cross the River Wharfe at Buckden, towards the northern end of Wharfedale. Look for the Buckden Rake bridleway, on the western flank of Buckden Pike.
Still feeling fresh? Take a detour up to Buckden Pike for fantastic views along Wharfedale and into Langstrothdale.
Descend to Cray Gill, a steep valley at the northern tip of Wharfedale. Cross the Causeway road and head on to the Gilbert Lane track.
A change of scenery again - Stake Moss is a wild place compared to Wharfedale. The ground is boggy and only the hardiest cattle and sheep hang about up here. The path is easy to follow, though. At the first footpath junction, take the path along Silky Gill into Raydale.
Raydale is a hidden gem - little visited, but surely one of the most captivating of the dales (and number three on this route, if you're ticking them off).
Paths weave their way around Semer Water and through the hamlets nestled in Raydale's quiet corners. Keep on a northern bearing - you're aiming for Bainbridge.
Wensleydale is quite a contrast to Raydale - it's the most popular dale with visitors, and there's a steady stream of tourists. No youth hostel here, but plenty of B & Bs and campsites in Bainbridge, or a couple of miles west in Hawes.
Cross the River Ure over the Yore Bridge - lovely views from here - and head into Askrigg.
It's a steep climb from Askrigg on to the open access land around Woodhall Greets. The nature of the walk changes again here - open grouse moor, where navigation is a bit trickier but the sense of space is awesome. It's a day for exploring the northern side of the Yorkshire Dales.
Severak paths and bridleways run parallel to Swaledale, helping to keep you going in the right direction. There are lots of old mine shafts around here, and grouse butts all over. Interesting features and a nod to the moor's working side.
Head for the high ground of High Carl and Gibbon Hill. It's really quite wild up here - no wonder the grouse like it so much. You are bound to see a few bumbling about as you scare them.
Paths start cropping up in earnest around Harkerside Moor, criss-crossing around like nobody's business. Pick the right one if you can!
This Youth Hostel is a fine place to finish the walk. An old shooting lodge on the edge of the moor, it is a lovely peaceful spot at night. The nearby woods are home to lots of owls - worth an evening stroll to try and spot them.
There are a few more accommodation options, including spots for the trusty canvas, in nearby Reeth.
There are buses from Grinton on to Richmond, a very pleasant town - you will probably need a full English breakfast after all that walking! Buses leave Richmond for several nearby towns including Northallerton - the nearest train station.
Just an info note as a friend tells me she went up Buckden Pike in mid April 2011 at that time The Buck Inn at Buckden was closed, as in 'not currently open for business'. Shame really.
Lovingly put together - I do think I know the dales but this made me want to dust off the boots to recapture the memories of family picnics and youth hostelling and to fill in the gaps - as indeed there are still places waiting to be discovered so thank you - it's good to be reminded that are still spellbinding moments to be had.